2026 Seed Inventory — Start Indoors: Mar

Beets - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
First-rate crops grow quickly in light or loamy soils with a pH over 6.0. In general, cool temperatures produce the best flesh color. Acute weather fluctuations will cause zoning (white rings) in the roots.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From direct seeding; subtract 14–21 days if transplants are used.
TRANSPLANTING:
Sow seed in a cold frame or indoors in early spring, about 5-6 weeks before transplanting out after heavy frosts become infrequent. Sow 1/2" deep, 2–3 seeds per cell in 72- or 128-cell flats. Transplant 3" apart in rows 12–18" apart. Beets transplanted using this method may not be as uniform as direct-seeded beets, and taproots will tangle, requiring the harvester to gently pull out the root while holding back the rest. However, transplanted beets can bring earlier harvests if poor weather conditions persist and interfere with direct seeding.
DIRECT SEEDING:
Begin early sowings when soil has warmed to 45°F (7°C). Sow 15 seeds/ft. 1/2" deep, rows 12–18" apart. Thin to 1 plant per 3". For a continuous supply of greens and small tender beets, sow seed at 2-week intervals until 8 weeks before regular heavy frosts are expected.
AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATE:
1M/66', 5M/333', 436M/acre at 15 seeds/ft. and 18" between rows.
DISEASE:
Keep beets well-irrigated to prevent scab, the same disorder that affects potatoes, causing raised brown rough spots on the mature roots. Internal breakdown or browning is most likely to occur in alkaline soils after prolonged hot, dry periods. This is caused by a boron deficiency. Rotate crops to prevent Cercospora leaf spot, which is especially important for bunching and baby-leaf beets.
HARVEST:
Harvest when roots reach desired size.
STORAGE:
For Fresh Market: Wash and store bunches up to 10 days at 32°F (0°C) and 95% relative humidity. For Winter Storage: Cut tops, wash, and store roots up to 6 months at 32°F (0°C) and 95% humidity.

Standard Heading Broccoli Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Broccoli prefers a well-drained, fertile soil that is high in organic matter with a pH of 6.0–7.5. A consistent supply of moisture throughout the growing season is important; irrigate regularly for best results. While more heat-tolerant varieties are now on the market, broccoli does not generally do well in hot weather. The best success is with spring and fall crops.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From date of transplanting; add about 20 days if direct seeding.
EARLY SPRING CROP:
Use early and midseason varieties. Sow 2 seeds per cell in 72-cell plug flats , 3–4 seeds/in. in 20 row flats , or in outdoor beds ¼" deep. Seedlings should be ready to transplant in 3–4 weeks. If possible keep soil temperature 75–80°F (24–27°C) until germination, then reduce air temperature to about 60°F (16°C). Ensure good air circulation and light. Transplant outdoors 10–18" apart in rows 18–36" apart. Broccoli prefers cooler growing temperatures, between 55–75°F (13–24°C), optimum being 60–70°F (16–21°C), but will produce good crops under warmer, summer conditions.
FALL CROP:
Use midseason and storage varieties. Start seedlings as above in May and transplant to the garden in June–July. To ensure mature heads, seed the crop early in areas where heavy freezes occur early in fall.
WINTER CROP:
Successful broccoli crops can be grown where winters are mild (temperatures rarely below 32°F [0°C]). Transplants can be set out from September to February in these regions.
DIRECT SEEDING:
Sow 3 seeds per foot, ½" deep, rows 18–36" apart, thinning to one plant in each group.
AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATE:
1,000 seeds/333' at 3 seeds/ft., 49,800 seeds (avg. 8.3 oz.)/acre spaced 7" apart in rows 18" apart.
INSECT PESTS:
Repel flea beetles and root maggots on young seedlings by covering with floating row covers from day of planting. Treat flea beetles with insecticides such as pyrethrin or azadirachtin if heavy pressure is observed. For cabbage worms and loopers, use Bacillus thuringiensis. Cutworm prevention: Cultivate soil 2–4 weeks before planting to work in cover crops and destroy weeds.
DISEASES:
Adhere strictly to a preventive program including: (1) long crop rotations with non-brassica crops, (2) clean starting mixes and outdoor seedbeds, and (3) strict sanitation practices. Johnny's Selected Seeds only sells seed lots of broccoli that have tested negative for black rot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris) and black leg (Phoma lingam). NOTE: A disease-free test result means that in the sample tested, the pathogen targeted was not found. It does not guarantee a seed lot to be disease-free. However, no method of seed treatment can positively insure freedom from disease. We are glad to help with specific questions.
HARVEST:
Before flower buds open, cut center head. Hydrocool or ice as soon as possible. Harvest secondary side shoots regularly to encourage continued production.
STORAGE:
Store at 32°F (0°C), 95–98% relative humidity, with good air circulation for 10–14 days.
TYPICAL PLANT POPULATION:
43,560 plants/acre (1 sq.ft./plant) spaced 8" apart in rows 18" apart.

Cabbage - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Cabbage, as well as cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, and related brassicas, are heavy feeders. They require fertile soils in a pH range of 6.5-7.5, supplied with consistent irrigation throughout the growing period.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From date of cool weather/spring transplanting. Subtract 10-14 days for late spring or early summer/warm weather transplanting. Add about 14 days for direct seeding.
TRANSPLANTING:
Early spring crop: Use early and midseason varieties. Sow 2 seeds per cell in 50- or 72-cell plug flats , 3-4 seeds/in. in 20-row flats , or in outdoor beds 1/4" deep. Seedlings should be ready to transplant in 4-6 weeks. If possible, keep soil temperature over 75°F (24°C) until germination, then reduce air temperature to about 60°F (16°C). Transplant outdoors 4-6 weeks after sowing 12-18" apart in rows 18-36" apart. Cabbage prefers cooler growing temperatures, between 55-75°F (13-24°C), optimum being 60-70°F (16-21°C) but will produce good crops under warmer summer conditions. Fall crop: Use midseason and storage varieties. Start seedlings as above in May and transplant to the garden in June/July. To ensure mature heads, seed the crop early in areas where heavy freezes occur early in fall. Winter crop: Successful cabbage crops can be grown where winters are mild (temperatures rarely below 32°F/0°C). Transplants can be set out from September to February in these regions.
DIRECT SEEDING:
Sow 3-4 seeds 12" apart, 1/2" deep, rows 24-36" apart, thinning to one plant in each group.
AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATE:
100 seeds/50', 500 seeds/250', 1M/500', 29M/acre at 2 seeds/ft. with rows 36" apart.
CROP MAINTENANCE (SPLITTING):
Early varieties may split or burst at maturity or from rapid new growth if rain or heavy irrigation follows a dry spell. Splitting may be partially avoided by slowing a plant's growth. To accomplish this, cultivate close to plants to sever some of the root system, or by slightly twisting the plant.
INSECT PESTS:
Repel flea beetles and root maggots on young seedlings by covering with floating row covers from day of planting. Treat flea beetles with insecticides such as pyrethrin or azadirachtin if heavy pressure is observed. For cabbage worms and loopers, use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) . Cutworm prevention: Cultivate soil 2-4 weeks before planting to work in cover crops and destroy weeds.
DISEASE:
Adhere strictly to a preventive program including: (1) long crop rotations with non-brassica crops, (2) clean starting mixes and outdoor seedbeds, and (3) strict sanitation practices. Johnny's Selected Seeds only sells seed lots of cabbage that have tested negative for black rot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris) and black leg (Phoma lingam).
HARVEST AND STORAGE:
Relatively young heads (still green and actively growing) store best. Ideal conditions are 32°F (0°C), at 95-98% relative humidity, with good air circulation. Store only disease-free heads.

Cauliflower - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Cauliflower prefers a well-drained, fertile soil high in organic matter with a pH of 6.0–7.5 and consistent moisture throughout the growing season. Irrigate regularly for best results. Cauliflower does not do well in hot weather; the best success is with spring and fall crops.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From date of transplanting.
TRANSPLANTING:
Early spring crop: Use early and midseason varieties. Sow in 72-cell plug flats . Seedlings should be ready to transplant in 4–6 weeks. If possible, keep soil at least 70°F (21°C) until germination, and 60°F (16°C) thereafter. Transplant outdoors when seedlings are no older than 4–5 weeks old. Older plants tend to be stressed and do not perform as well as actively growing seedlings. Harden plants carefully by gradually increasing cold before transplanting out, 18" between plants and 24–36" between rows. Fall crop: Use midseason and storage varieties. Start seedlings as above in May and transplant to the garden in June/July. To ensure mature heads, seed the crop early in areas where heavy freezes occur early in fall. Winter crop: Successful cauliflower crops can be grown where winters are mild (temperatures rarely below 32°F (0°C)). Transplants can be set out from September to February in these regions.
DIRECT SEEDING:
Sow 3–4 seeds 18" apart, ½" deep, rows 24–36" apart, thinning to one plant in each group.
BLANCHING:
Exposure to the sun can cause white cauliflower heads to yellow. To prevent yellowing and promote better head quality in hot weather, follow this blanching technique: at the moment when small white heads are just visible through leaves, gather the outer leaves over the head and tie with string or a large rubber band to preserve white curd color. Another method is to crack the leaf midribs and fold them over the heads until completely covered. Be sure not to break the leaves, or they may blow away. Tied or covered heads may experience increased humidity and greater likelihood of contracting Alternaria . As such, practice blanching only when necessary; not in the cool, shorter days of fall, or with colored varieties that need sunlight to achieve their full color.
INSECT PESTS:
Repel flea beetles and root maggots on young seedlings by covering with floating row covers from day of planting. Treat flea beetles with insecticides such as pyrethrin or azadirachtin if heavy pressure is observed. For cabbage worms and loopers, use bacillus thuringiensis (bt). cutworm prevention: cultivate soil 24 weeks before planting to work in cover crops and destroy weeds.
DISEASE:
Adhere strictly to a preventive program including: (1) long crop rotations with non-brassica crops, (2) clean starting mixes and outdoor seedbeds, and (3) strict sanitation practices. Johnny's Selected Seeds only sells seed lots of cauliflower that have tested negative for black rot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris) and black leg (Phoma lingam). NOTE: A disease-free test result means that in the sample tested, the pathogen targeted was not found. It does not guarantee a seed lot to be disease-free. However, no method of seed treatment can positively insure freedom from disease. We are glad to help with specific questions.
HARVEST:
Keep an eye on development, cutting heads when desired size is obtained but before the curds becomes loose, or "ricey."
STORAGE:
Store at 32°F (0°C) and 95–98% relative humidity for 2–3 weeks.

Chamomile - Key Growing Information
DAYS TO GERMINATION:
10-14 days.
SOWING:
Transplant (recommended): Seeds should be started indoors in flats 4-6 weeks before transplanting out. Press seeds gently into the surface of the growing medium, but do not cover as they require light for germination. Mist to keep the soil surface moist. Keep flats at alternating temperatures of 68°F (20°C) and 86°F (30°C) day and night until germination. Transplant when seedlings are 1-2" tall with 3-4 true leaves, as older seedlings do not transplant well. The final spacing should be 8" apart in rows 18" apart.
Direct seed: Direct seed as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. Scatter the seeds in a narrow band and cover shallowly, as seeds require light to germinate. Keep moist until germination. Thin to clusters of 2-3 plants spaced 8" apart in rows 18" apart.
LIGHT PREFERENCE:
Sun.
SOIL REQUIREMENTS:
A fertile, well-drained, sandy loam.
PLANT HEIGHT:
15-24".
PLANT SPACING:
8".
HARDINESS ZONES:
Annual.
HARVEST:
Gather flowers when in full bloom. Three to four cuttings are possible in one growing season. To dry, place flower heads one layer deep on a screen in a dry place out of direct sunlight and with good ventilation. Stir periodically over several days until dry.
Note: Chamomile self-sows readily. May become invasive, if allowed to do so.

Swiss Chard - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Soil pH should be over 6.0. Cool and mild weather is preferred, though chard has some heat tolerance. Seeds germinate in soil temperatures from 40–100°F (5–38°C) with an optimum of 86°F (30°C). Seedlings will tolerate light frosts, and mature plants will tolerate moderate frosts. Some varieties may experience bolting pressure if seedlings are exposed to prolonged temperatures in the low 50s or below. Swiss chard may overwinter in mild areas.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From date of direct seeding.
TRANSPLANTING:
Sow seed in a cold frame or indoors in early spring, about 5–6 weeks before transplanting out after heavy frosts become infrequent. Sow 1/2" deep, 2–3 seeds per cell in 72- or 128-cell flats. Thin to 1–2 plants per cell. Transplant out 4–6" apart in rows 12–18" apart.
DIRECT SEEDING:
Bunching: Sow about 6 seeds/ft., 1/2" deep, rows 12–18" apart from midspring and on into midsummer (fall where winter is mild). Thin to 4–6" apart for larger leaves. Baby Leaf: Sow 1/4– 1/2" deep at 2–4 seeds/inch in rows at least 2" apart from midspring into late summer (fall where winter is mild). Planting too densely can lead to overcrowding and stunted growth. When planting more seeds per inch, be sure to plant rows farther apart.
AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATE:
Bunching: 1 oz./300', 3¼ oz./1,000', 4½ lb./acre at 6 seeds/ft. in rows 24" apart. Baby Leaf: 4,000 seeds/100', 1 oz./45'.
INSECT PESTS & DISEASE:
Rotate crops to prevent Cercospora leaf spot and other diseases/pests.
HARVEST:
Bunching: Cut or snap mature leaves individually. New leaves will grow for multiple harvests. Baby Leaf: Harvest with a knife when leaves reach desired size, about 3–6". Cut about an inch above the soil to allow for clean regrowth, making sure to cut above the basal plate. Cut again when leaves reach desired size (5–14 days, depending on variety).

Tomatoes - Key Growing Information
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From transplants.
DETERMINATE (BUSH):
Varieties do not need pruning and may be grown with or without support; fruit ripens within a concentrated time period.
INDETERMINATE (CLIMBING):
Varieties should be staked, trellised, or caged, and pruned for best results; fruit ripens over an extended period.
CULTURE:
Medium-rich soil with pH 6.0–6.8 preferred. Fertilize accurately since excess nitrogen causes rampant growth, rot, and delayed ripening. For short determinates, succession-plant every 4–6 weeks. Tomatoes typically germinate in 5–7 days.
TRANSPLANTING:
Don't start too early—leggy, root-bound, or flowering transplants can cause stunting and reduce early production. About 5–6 weeks before transplanting, sow 1/4" deep in 20-row flats with 20 seeds/row, or in 200-cell trays with 1 seed/cell; lightly cover. Keep mix at 75–85°F (24–29°C) with moderate moisture. At first true leaf, pot-up to 50-cell trays or 4" pots, depending on expected transplant timing. Grow at constant 60–70°F (16–21°C) temp and use complete fertilizer until hardened off. Supplemental lights and lower night temps control stretching. For earliest crop, plant under row cover around last frost date. Avoid exposing unprotected plants to consecutive nightly temperatures below 45°F (7°C). In rows 4–6' apart, space determinates 12–24" and indeterminates 24–36". Plant deeply to encourage adventitious rooting. Water seedlings with a high-phosphate fertilizer solution at planting to help boost early yields.
TRELLISING:
Basket-weave by pounding 5–6' stakes every 2–3 plants, using heavier t-posts intermittently and at ends of beds. For tall indeterminates, consider short extensions or pruning once they outgrow a manageable size for easy harvest.
PRUNING:
Indeterminates likely benefit by removing all suckers under the first strong branch directly below the first flower cluster. The lower bottom suckers often miss trellis supports, set fruit closer to soil, take energy from upper parts, and encourage spread of disease from soil. If needed later in season, consider thinning out leaves to increase airflow or topping plants to help finish ripening last fruits.
INSECT PESTS AND DISEASE:
Learn your common pests and options for control, including resistant cultivars and pesticides . Avoid wet leaves and handling when wet or using tobacco products. Manage plant debris and crop rotations.
HARVEST:
Fruits ripen gradually from the blossom end to shoulders and from the base of clusters to the tips. Harvest softer fruit unstacked into shallow, padded trays. Use fully ripe fruit only for local retail or home-use. To deliver sound fruit, pick less ripe the further the distance and the longer the time between field and customer. Any fruit breaking color will still ripen post-harvest. Calyx can be removed or kept to prove freshness.
STORAGE:
Store blemish-free, near-ripe fruit 4–7 days at room temperature in darkness. Store longer with proper variety selection, picking less-ripe, and keeping at cooler temperatures 45–60°F (7–16°C). Colder and picking too green will sacrifice end-quality.

Chinese Cabbage - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Chinese cabbage performs best in the gradually decreasing day length and cooler temperatures of late summer but can be grown successfully in the spring if careful attention is paid to prevent bolting. For spring and early summer transplanted crops, be sure to wait until the last frost date to transplant or direct seed the crop. Young plants may bolt to seed prematurely if they are exposed to frost or over a week of sub 50°F (10°C) nights.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From date of transplanting; add 14–21 days for direct seeding.
TRANSPLANTING:
Spring-planted crops: Sow 2 seeds per cell 1/4" deep in 72-cell plug trays . If possible, keep soil temperatures above 75°F (24°C) until germination and then maintain air temperature at 60–70°F (16–21°C). Transplant out in 3–5 weeks, around the last frost date (see notes on bolting above), taking care not to disturb roots; water-in plants. Summer/fall-planted crops: Start seedlings as described above in mid-to-late June or direct seed from late May to mid-July as described below.
DIRECT SEEDING:
Sow 3–4 seeds every 12–18" (thin to one plant) in rows 18-30" apart from late May to mid-July.
AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATE:
1,000 seeds/333', 5M/1,666', 66M/acre at 3 seeds/ft. in rows 2' apart.
INSECT PESTS:
Control flea beetles and cabbage root maggots with floating row covers from day of planting.
DISEASE:
Adhere strictly to a preventive program including: (1) long crop rotations with non-brassica crops, (2) clean starting mixes and outdoor seedbeds, and (3) strict sanitation practices. Johnny's Selected Seeds only sells seed lots of Chinese cabbage that have tested negative for black rot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris) and black leg (Phoma lingam).
HARVEST:
Cut when heads are very firm.
STORAGE:
Heads will store 1–2 months in a near-freezing, humid cooler, or in a root cellar if trimmed and wrapped in newspaper.

Collards - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Collards prefer a fertile, well-drained soil high in organic matter with a pH range of 6.0–7.5. Consistent moisture will produce the best quality leaves. In the South, collards are best for fall, winter, and early spring harvests, to avoid the temperature extremes of midsummer—even though they will tolerate some measure of heat. Because collards are very cold tolerant, they also do well in the North, where their flavor is enhanced by frost and cold weather.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From date of direct seeding; subtract about 14 days if transplanting.
DIRECT SEEDING:
Plant from early spring to approximately 3 months before expected fall frost. For bunching, sow 3–4 seeds every 12-18", ½" deep, in rows 18–36" apart. Thin to 1 plant per group. For baby leaf production, sow 60 seeds per foot in a 2–4" wide band ¼–½" deep.
AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATE:
For bunching: 1,000 seeds/220', 1 oz./1,110', 1 lb./24,000'.
EARLY SPRING CROP:
Sow 2 seeds per cell in 50- to 72-cell plug flats , 3–4 seeds/in. in 20 row flats , or in outdoor beds ¼" deep. Seedlings should be ready to transplant in 4-6 weeks. If possible keep soil temperature over 75°F (24°C) until germination, then reduce air temperature to about 60°F (16°C). Transplant outdoors 12–18" apart in rows 18–36" apart. Collards prefer cooler growing temperatures, between 55–75°F (13–24°C), optimum being 60–70°F (16–21°C), but will produce good crops under warmer, summer conditions.
FALL CROP:
Start seedlings as above in May and transplant to the garden in June–July. To ensure mature heads, seed the crop early in areas where heavy freezes occur early in fall.
WINTER CROP:
Successful collards crops can be grown where winters are mild (temperatures rarely below 32°F (0°C)). Transplants can be set out from September to February in these regions.
INSECT PESTS:
The best insect control is achieved with the use of fabric row covers applied at planting, to exclude insects from the plants.
DISEASE:
Adhere strictly to a preventive program including: (1) long crop rotations with non-brassica crops, (2) clean starting mixes and outdoor seedbeds, and (3) strict sanitation practices. Johnny's Selected Seeds only sells seed lots of collards that have tested negative for black rot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris) and black leg (Phoma lingam). NOTE: A disease-free test result means that in the sample tested, the pathogen targeted was not found. It does not guarantee a seed lot to be disease-free. However, no method of seed treatment can positively insure freedom from disease. We are glad to help with specific questions.
HARVEST:
Beginning about 2 months after planting, harvest by clipping individual leaves. Collards are very hardy, and the eating quality will improve into the late fall with light frost. Late summer sown or planted collards can be wintered in cold frames or hoophouses, or in the open in mild regions, to extend the season. Protecting with row covers can extend the harvest period.

Cosmos - Key Growing Information
DAYS TO GERMINATION:
7-10 days at 68-72°F (20-22°C)
SOWING:
Transplant - Sow into 50-cell plug flats or preferred seedling container 5-7 weeks before planting out, covering seeds lightly. Harden off and transplant out after danger of frost. Direct seed - Sow after last frost, once soil temperature is above 60°F (16°C), covering seeds lightly. Pinching encourages branching.
LIGHT PREFERENCE:
Sun.
PLANT HEIGHT:
Varies. Tall varieties may benefit from some wind protection, such as Hortonova, used as horizontal support.
PLANT SPACING:
9-12". Wider spacing creates stronger, thicker stems.
HARDINESS ZONES:
Annual.
HARVEST:
Petals just opening, but not yet flattened. Deadheading is required to have blooms all summer.
SOIL REQUIREMENTS:
Any soil.
USES:
Excellent cut flowers. Beds, containers, and mass plantings.

Eggplant - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Eggplants require fertile, well-drained soil with a pH range of 6.2-6.8.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From date of transplanting.
TRANSPLANTING:
Sow seed in flats indoors during early spring, or 6-8 weeks prior to planting outdoors. Sow 4 seeds/in., ¼" deep, and maintain soil temperature at 80-90°F (27-32°C) until emergence and 70°F (21°C) thereafter. Seed will not germinate in cool soil. After true leaves form, thin to 2-3" apart in flats or transplant into 2-3" pots or plug trays. To harden plants, reduce water and temperature to about 60°F (16°C) for about a week before planting out. Transplant outdoors late spring or early summer once the weather has thoroughly settled. Eggplants are tender, and cold weather may weaken them. Use row covers for a boost in performance and insect control. Remove when plants reach the covers or when blossoms first appear. Space transplants 18" apart in rows 30-36" apart, or 2 rows on plastic mulch , 18-24" between plants. It is important to be mindful of over-fertility. Too much nitrogen often results in large, bushy plants that produce only one small set of fruit.
CROP MAINTENANCE:
Eggplants may be pruned and staked to keep the fruits straight.
INSECT PESTS:
Fabric row covers are the recommended method of control for flea beetles and Colorado potato beetles (CPB) for newly set transplants. Once covers are removed, regularly check undersides of leaves and crush any orange egg masses of the CPB.
DISEASE:
Practice lengthy crop rotation to avoid Verticillium wilt. A 4-5 year rotation for all Solanaceae crops is recommended.
HARVEST:
Clip fruit stem with shears. Pick fruits of desired size regularly to encourage further production.

Husk Cherry (Physalis pruinosa) - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Same as tomatoes, but once established, more tolerant to stress from drought, heat, cold, and low nutrients. Well adapted to growing in most regions in the U.S. Typically germinates within 7–10 days, but may take up to 14 days.
TRANSPLANTING:
Sow in 50-cell trays
6–7 weeks before transplanting. Can also sow tightly in flats and pot-up (see Tomato culture). Keep moist until emergence. Transplant outdoors after danger of frost, about 1–2 weeks later than your earliest tomatoes. Plant 18–24" apart.
CROP MAINTENANCE:
Black plastic mulch and row covers will accelerate growth in cooler regions. Short, yet sprawling plants can grow wild but do benefit from some support, similar to determinate tomatoes. Can thrive in containers, but additional mulching underneath and a trellis that elevates the plants but still allows plants to remain open will increase harvest efficiency.
DISEASE & PESTS:
See Tomatoes.
HARVEST:
Pick weekly (with husks attached) into containers or 10-lb flats. Harvest when fruit turns golden in color, husk is partially dry, and fruits fall or easily detach from plant. Collect blemish-free fruit from plants or from the ground.
STORAGE:
Sensitive to cold injury and ethylene gas (affects fruit color). Store dry and in husks at room temperature for 1–2 weeks, or at 41–50°F and 80–90% RH for 3–4 weeks. Husks will naturally dry within 2 weeks, but high humidity is recommended for best freshness.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From transplant.

Kale - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Kale prefers a fertile, well-drained soil high in organic matter with a pH range of 6.0–7.5. Consistent moisture will produce the highest-quality leaves. For baby-leaf production, see the Baby Leaf Brassica Greens culture .
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From date of direct seeding; subtract about 14 days for days to maturity from transplant.
DIRECT SEEDING:
Plant from early spring to approximately 3 months before expected fall frost. For bunching: Sow 3–4 seeds every 12–18", ½" deep, in rows 18–36" apart. Thin to 1 plant per group.
AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATE:
For bunching: 1,000 seeds/220', 1 oz./1,110', 1 lb./24,000'.
TRANSPLANTING:
Early Spring Crop: Use varieties suited to warm-season production. Sow 2 seeds per cell in 50- to 72-cell plug flats , 3–4 seeds/in. in 20-row flats ; or, in outdoor beds ¼" deep. Seedlings should be ready to transplant in 4–6 weeks. If possible, keep soil temperature over 75°F (24°C) until germination, then reduce air temperature to about 60°F (16°C). Transplant outdoors 12–18" apart in rows 18–36" apart. Kale prefers cooler growing temperatures, between 55–75°F (13–24°C), optimum being 60–70°F (16–21°C), but will produce good crops under warmer, summer conditions. Fall Crop: Start seedlings as above in May and transplant to the garden in June–July. To ensure mature heads, seed the crop early in areas where heavy freezes occur early in fall. Winter Crop: Successful kale crops can be grown where winters are mild and temperatures rarely fall below 32°F (0°C). Transplants can be set out from September to February in these regions.
INSECT PESTS:
Kale is not as afflicted with pests as are other brassica crops such as cabbage. Apply row covers at the time of planting to exclude pests from the crop. Control cabbage worms and loopers with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) .
DISEASE:
Adhere strictly to a preventive program including: (1) long crop rotations with non-brassica crops, (2) clean starting mixes and outdoor seedbeds, and (3) strict sanitation practices. Johnny's Selected Seeds only sells seed lots of kale that have tested negative for black rot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris) and black leg (Phoma lingam).
HARVEST:
Beginning about 2 months after planting, harvest by clipping individual leaves. Kale is very hardy, and the eating quality will improve into the late fall with light frost. Late-summer sown or planted collards can be wintered in cold frames or hoophouses, or in the open in mild regions, to extend the season. Protecting with row covers can extend the harvest period.

Leeks - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Leeks are heavy feeders and require fertile soil (pH of 6.2-6.8) for best results.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From transplanting; add 20-30 days if direct seeding.
TRANSPLANTING:
Sow in flats 10-12 weeks before last frost at 1/4" apart, 1/4" deep or start in plug flats, thinning to one plant per cell. Beginning in late spring, when approx. 8" tall and pencil-thick, transplant 6" apart in rows at least 12" apart in holes dibbled 6" deep. Only 2-3" of leaves need to extend above the soil surface. Do not firm soil - allow irrigation or rain to fill in the dibble hole.
DIRECT SEEDING:
Sow in early spring, 6 seeds/ft., 1/4- 1/2" deep, in rows 24" apart. Thin to 6".
AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATE:
1,000 seeds/165', 1 oz./1,650', 11 oz. or 105M/acre at 6 seeds/ft. in rows 30" apart.
BLANCHING:
During the growing period hill the plants with soil 2 or 3 times, higher with each hilling. This forces the leaves higher up the plant resulting in extra-long blanched stalks and a much longer edible portion. When using the "dibble method," hilling is reduced or eliminated.
DISEASE:
All Johnny's leek plants are tested and certified free from the presence of white rot and parasitic nematodes.
HARVEST:
When plants reach desired size, loosen with a spading fork and lift plant.
STORAGE:
Clean leeks and store several weeks at near freezing in a humid cooler in boxes, or store in a root cellar with roots in moist soil/sand/peat mix.

Lettuce - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Lettuce is a hardy, cool-weather crop and can be planted with your earliest worked soil. It grows best at 60–65°F (16–18°C) and germinates best below 70°F (21°C), so careful variety selection is key for success in hotter weather.
THERMAL DORMANCY:
Lettuce seed can enter thermal dormancy when exposed to high temperatures. Optimum germination results at soil temperatures of 60-68°F (16-20°C). The priming process in pelleted lettuce seeds broadens the temperature range in which the seeds will germinate, overcoming some of their thermal dormancy.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From date of spring/cool weather transplanting. Subtract 10–14 days for late spring/early summer/warm weather transplanting. Add about 14 days for direct seeding.
TRANSPLANTING for HEAD LETTUCE: 3–4 weeks before field planting, sow in 128-cell trays barely covered with vermiculite or fine soil. If necessary, utilize shade and frequent misting to keep trays cooled below 75°F (25°C) during germination. Young plants properly hardened at least 3–5 days before planting can survive temperatures as low as 20°F (-6°C). Transplant iceberg, romaine, and butterhead lettuce 10–12" apart in rows 15–18" apart, other types 8–10" apart in rows 12–18", and mini heads as close as 6" in a grid.
DIRECT SEEDING for BABY LEAF: Seeds can germinate well in soils as low as 40°F (4°C) but often poorly above 75°F (24°C). Sow 4–6 seeds/inch in rows at least 2" apart. Cover lightly to 1/8" and firm gently. Dry soil must be watered to ensure coolness and moisture for uniform germination.
AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATE:
For baby leaf: 1,000 seeds/16', 1 oz./400', 1 lb./6,400' at 60 seeds/ft.
SUCCESSION PLANTING:
Sow every 2–3 weeks for a continuous supply of either full heads or salad mix.
HARVEST:
Head Lettuce: Cut at base, keeping wrapper leaves for handling loss. Consider cutting alternating plants to extend harvest window, allowing remaining plants to continue to grow. Pack heads in layers facing cut ends away. Wash off sap and cool immediately to prevent staining and dehydration. Baby Leaf: Harvest about 1" above the growing point when leaves reach desired harvestable length, about 3–4" long. Remove harvest debris to improve regrowth quality.
STORAGE:
Keep cold at 35–40°F (1–4°C) with high humidity but free of standing water. Head Lettuce: Keep 14–20 days, less for delicate types like butterhead and oakleaf, and longer for lettuce grown slowly in cooler temperatures. For one-cut types, extend season in cold weather by holding cut heads in cooler up to two weeks to process into salad mix.

Marigolds - Key Growing Information
DAYS TO GERMINATION:
4-7 days at 75-80°F (24-27°C)
SOWING:
Transplant (recommended) - Sow into 72-cell flat or preferred seedling container 4-6 weeks before planting out, lightly covering seed. Transplant out after danger of frost. For flowering in packs, sow 8 weeks before desired bloom time. Direct seed - Sow 1/4" deep. Pinching encourages branching. NOTES: High temperatures can cause plants to stall, and temporarily decline in growth and bloom. Deadhead regularly to increase blooms.
LIGHT PREFERENCE:
Sun.
PLANT HEIGHT:
Varies.
PLANT SPACING:
8-18". French Marigold: 8-12". Gem Marigold: 12". African Marigold: 12-18".
HARDINESS ZONES:
Annual.
HARVEST:
Flowers are fully open but still have tight centers.
SOIL REQUIREMENTS:
Average soil. Feed moderately. pH: 6.0-7.5 preferred.
USES:
Beds, borders, mass plantings, containers, and window boxes. Edible flowers, cut flowers (tall varieties).

Tomatoes - Key Growing Information
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From transplants.
DETERMINATE (BUSH):
Varieties do not need pruning and may be grown with or without support; fruit ripens within a concentrated time period.
INDETERMINATE (CLIMBING):
Varieties should be staked, trellised, or caged, and pruned for best results; fruit ripens over an extended period.
CULTURE:
Medium-rich soil with pH 6.0–6.8 preferred. Fertilize accurately since excess nitrogen causes rampant growth, rot, and delayed ripening. For short determinates, succession-plant every 4–6 weeks. Tomatoes typically germinate in 5–7 days.
TRANSPLANTING:
Don't start too early—leggy, root-bound, or flowering transplants can cause stunting and reduce early production. About 5–6 weeks before transplanting, sow 1/4" deep in 20-row flats with 20 seeds/row, or in 200-cell trays with 1 seed/cell; lightly cover. Keep mix at 75–85°F (24–29°C) with moderate moisture. At first true leaf, pot-up to 50-cell trays or 4" pots, depending on expected transplant timing. Grow at constant 60–70°F (16–21°C) temp and use complete fertilizer until hardened off. Supplemental lights and lower night temps control stretching. For earliest crop, plant under row cover around last frost date. Avoid exposing unprotected plants to consecutive nightly temperatures below 45°F (7°C). In rows 4–6' apart, space determinates 12–24" and indeterminates 24–36". Plant deeply to encourage adventitious rooting. Water seedlings with a high-phosphate fertilizer solution at planting to help boost early yields.
TRELLISING:
Basket-weave by pounding 5–6' stakes every 2–3 plants, using heavier t-posts intermittently and at ends of beds. For tall indeterminates, consider short extensions or pruning once they outgrow a manageable size for easy harvest.
PRUNING:
Indeterminates likely benefit by removing all suckers under the first strong branch directly below the first flower cluster. The lower bottom suckers often miss trellis supports, set fruit closer to soil, take energy from upper parts, and encourage spread of disease from soil. If needed later in season, consider thinning out leaves to increase airflow or topping plants to help finish ripening last fruits.
INSECT PESTS AND DISEASE:
Learn your common pests and options for control, including resistant cultivars and pesticides . Avoid wet leaves and handling when wet or using tobacco products. Manage plant debris and crop rotations.
HARVEST:
Fruits ripen gradually from the blossom end to shoulders and from the base of clusters to the tips. Harvest softer fruit unstacked into shallow, padded trays. Use fully ripe fruit only for local retail or home-use. To deliver sound fruit, pick less ripe the further the distance and the longer the time between field and customer. Any fruit breaking color will still ripen post-harvest. Calyx can be removed or kept to prove freshness.
STORAGE:
Store blemish-free, near-ripe fruit 4–7 days at room temperature in darkness. Store longer with proper variety selection, picking less-ripe, and keeping at cooler temperatures 45–60°F (7–16°C). Colder and picking too green will sacrifice end-quality.

Peas - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Peas are a cool-weather crop. Midsummer pickings are not as prolific as earlier harvests. For best yields ensure adequate fertility and a pH of 6.5-6.8. Adjust pH with ground limestone or wood ashes, ideally in the fall prior to spring planting. Inoculate peas to encourage formation of nitrogen-producing nodules on the plant roots. This enriches the soil, results in larger plants, and increases yield.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From date of direct seeding.
DIRECT SEEDING:
Spring crop: In early spring as soon as the soil can be worked, sow 1 1/2-2" apart in rows 18-36" apart, 1/2-1" deep. Do not thin. Varieties under 3' tall can be sown without support in rows 12-18" apart. For taller varieties, use crop supports such as a trellis net or chicken wire to keep vines upright, easy to pick and off the ground where they are less likely to rot if rainy weather coincides with harvest. Suspend the bottom of the trellis or chicken wire just above the young plants. The best time to install a trellis is at planting time. Normal row spacing is 4-6' for trellised peas. Fall crop: Variety selection is key. Choose powdery mildew-resistant varieties and early maturing varieties that will still flower in diminishing daylight. Sow about 2 months before frost. Keep seeds well-watered to encourage good germination.
AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATE:
1 lb. per 80', 13 lb./1,000', 272 lb./acre at 25 seeds/ft., in rows 24" apart.
DISEASE:
A common disease is pea root rot (Fusarium sp. or Aphanomyces euteiches) which causes yellowing and die-back of foliage from the ground up. The best control is to ensure well-drained soil and to rotate crops out of legumes for at least three years. Powdery mildew causes white, powdery mold on the leaves, stems, and pods in hot weather. Choose resistant varieties.
HARVEST:
Pick when peas enlarge in the pods.

Spinach - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Spinach grows in a wide range of soils if moist and fertile but is sensitive to acidity; pH should be at least 6.0, preferably 6.5–7.5. Spinach germinates best in cool soil. Begin sowing in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Summer sowing in soil over 85°F (30°C) risks low or erratic germination. If sowing must be done during warmer weather, irrigating can help cool the soil and improve germination. Sow in mid-to-late summer for a fall harvest. Spinach can also be planted from late summer through the winter in protected structures for fall, winter, and spring harvest, though growth rates are much slower. Using floating row covers offers additional winter protection.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From date of direct seeding.
TRANSPLANTING:
While direct seeding is customary, some growers choose to transplant their spinach, especially using the Paperpot Transplanter. Transplanting can help ensure full stands if germination has been difficult, either because of warm soil temperatures or diseases like damping off.
DIRECT SEEDING:
For baby leaf: Sow 3–5 seeds/inch in rows at least 2" apart. For bunching and full size: Sow 10 seeds/ft., 1/2" deep, in rows 12–18" apart.
AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATE:
For baby leaf: 1M/25', 5M/125', 1,200M/acre at 40 seeds/ft. in rows at least 2" apart. For full-size leaves: 10M/1,000', 290M/acre at 10 seeds/ft. in rows 12–18" apart.
SUCCESSION PLANTING:
For a continuous supply, sow every 7–10 days.
HARVEST:
For baby leaf: Harvest when leaves reach desired size in 3–5 weeks, depending on time of year and speed of growth, making sure to cut above the basal plate for cut-and-come-again harvests. A second cut is possible by choosing appropriate varieties in all the seasonal slots. Triple-rinse leaves, sort out cut and broken leaves, and package. For full size: Harvest the long stems just above the basal plate, or, by cutting just below the basal plate for whole-plant harvest. When growing winter spinach, harvest largest leaves and allow the smaller ones to size-up for later harvests. Full-size spinach can be sold as loose leaves or bunched.
STORAGE:
Store at 32°F (0°C) and 95% relative humidity for 10–14 days.

Tomatillo (Physalis philadelphica) - Key Growing Information
CULTURE:
Same as tomatoes, but once established, more tolerant to stress from drought, heat, cold, and low nutrients. Well adapted to growing in most regions in the U.S. Typically germinates within 7–10 days.
TRANSPLANTING:
Sow in 50-cell trays 4–5 weeks before transplanting. Can also sow tightly in flats and pot-up (see Tomato culture). Keep moist until emergence. Transplant outdoors after danger of frost, about 1–2 weeks later than your earliest tomatoes. Plant tomatillos deeply for adventitious rooting, spaced at 24–36" apart, depending on amount of plant training. At least two tomatillo plants required for successful pollination and fruit-set.
CROP MAINTENANCE:
Black plastic mulch and row covers will accelerate growth in cooler regions. Short, yet sprawling plants can grow wild but do benefit from some support, similar to determinate tomatoes. Tomatillos can thrive in containers, but a trellis that elevates the plants but still allows plants to remain open will increase harvest efficiency.
DISEASE & PESTS:
See Tomatoes.
HARVEST:
Pick weekly (with husks attached) into containers or 10-lb flats. Harvest when fruit is still firm, bright green, and filling the papery husk. Best marketed with husks attached but split open enough to reveal the sticky fruit. If needed, cool rapidly to preserve husk quality. Once softening and yellowing, the fruit is overmature and highly prone to splitting.
STORAGE:
Sensitive to cold injury and ethylene gas (affects fruit color). Store dry and in husks at room temperature for 1–2 weeks, or at 41–50°F and 80–90% RH for 3–4 weeks. Husks will naturally dry within 2 weeks, but high humidity is recommended for best freshness. Tomatillos can be held even longer in the refrigerator, either in a paper bag with husks attached, or peeled and washed and put into a plastic bag. Tomatillos can also be frozen for later processing.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From transplant.

Tomatoes - Key Growing Information
DAYS TO MATURITY:
From transplants.
DETERMINATE (BUSH):
Varieties do not need pruning and may be grown with or without support; fruit ripens within a concentrated time period.
INDETERMINATE (CLIMBING):
Varieties should be staked, trellised, or caged, and pruned for best results; fruit ripens over an extended period.
CULTURE:
Medium-rich soil with pH 6.0–6.8 preferred. Fertilize accurately since excess nitrogen causes rampant growth, rot, and delayed ripening. For short determinates, succession-plant every 4–6 weeks. Tomatoes typically germinate in 5–7 days.
TRANSPLANTING:
Don't start too early—leggy, root-bound, or flowering transplants can cause stunting and reduce early production. About 5–6 weeks before transplanting, sow 1/4" deep in 20-row flats with 20 seeds/row, or in 200-cell trays with 1 seed/cell; lightly cover. Keep mix at 75–85°F (24–29°C) with moderate moisture. At first true leaf, pot-up to 50-cell trays or 4" pots, depending on expected transplant timing. Grow at constant 60–70°F (16–21°C) temp and use complete fertilizer until hardened off. Supplemental lights and lower night temps control stretching. For earliest crop, plant under row cover around last frost date. Avoid exposing unprotected plants to consecutive nightly temperatures below 45°F (7°C). In rows 4–6' apart, space determinates 12–24" and indeterminates 24–36". Plant deeply to encourage adventitious rooting. Water seedlings with a high-phosphate fertilizer solution at planting to help boost early yields.
TRELLISING:
Basket-weave by pounding 5–6' stakes every 2–3 plants, using heavier t-posts intermittently and at ends of beds. For tall indeterminates, consider short extensions or pruning once they outgrow a manageable size for easy harvest.
PRUNING:
Indeterminates likely benefit by removing all suckers under the first strong branch directly below the first flower cluster. The lower bottom suckers often miss trellis supports, set fruit closer to soil, take energy from upper parts, and encourage spread of disease from soil. If needed later in season, consider thinning out leaves to increase airflow or topping plants to help finish ripening last fruits.
INSECT PESTS AND DISEASE:
Learn your common pests and options for control, including resistant cultivars and pesticides . Avoid wet leaves and handling when wet or using tobacco products. Manage plant debris and crop rotations.
HARVEST:
Fruits ripen gradually from the blossom end to shoulders and from the base of clusters to the tips. Harvest softer fruit unstacked into shallow, padded trays. Use fully ripe fruit only for local retail or home-use. To deliver sound fruit, pick less ripe the further the distance and the longer the time between field and customer. Any fruit breaking color will still ripen post-harvest. Calyx can be removed or kept to prove freshness.
STORAGE:
Store blemish-free, near-ripe fruit 4–7 days at room temperature in darkness. Store longer with proper variety selection, picking less-ripe, and keeping at cooler temperatures 45–60°F (7–16°C). Colder and picking too green will sacrifice end-quality.